Introduction
Kowloon, often overshadowed by the glitz and glamour of Hong Kong Island, is a culinary playground brimming with authentic Cantonese flavors and hidden gastronomic treasures. Cross the harbor, and you’ll find a vibrant, bustling district with a food scene that’s as diverse as its residents. From steaming baskets of dim sum to sizzling street food stalls and time-honored Cantonese restaurants, Kowloon offers a delicious and immersive experience for every palate. This guide explores the rich and rewarding world of food in Kowloon, highlighting local favorites, secret finds, and must-try dishes that will leave you wanting more. Prepare to embark on a culinary adventure that will introduce you to the heart and soul of Hong Kong’s other side.
Dim Sum Delights: A Kowloon Tradition
No trip to Hong Kong is complete without indulging in the quintessential Cantonese experience of dim sum, and Kowloon is an excellent place to savor this beloved tradition. Dim sum, which translates to “touch the heart,” is a collection of small, bite-sized dishes served with tea. It’s a social and communal affair, perfect for sharing with friends and family. Kowloon is filled with dim sum restaurants, ranging from grand, bustling halls to smaller, more intimate establishments.
For a truly authentic experience, consider visiting One Dim Sum Chinese Restaurant in Prince Edward. This Michelin-recommended eatery is known for its affordable prices and consistently high-quality dim sum. Be prepared to queue, as it’s a popular spot with locals and tourists alike. Another excellent choice is Tim Ho Wan, also a Michelin-starred establishment, with several locations throughout Kowloon. They are famed for their baked BBQ pork buns, a must-try dish that will melt in your mouth. If you are after a fancy dining experience, head to Lung King Hee inside the InterContinental Hong Kong hotel.
When ordering dim sum, there are a few dishes that you absolutely must try. Siu Mai, steamed pork dumplings topped with crab roe, are a classic for a reason. Har Gow, delicate shrimp dumplings with translucent wrappers, are another essential. Char Siu Bao, fluffy steamed buns filled with sweet and savory BBQ pork, are a crowd-pleaser. For the more adventurous, consider trying chicken feet, braised in a flavorful sauce, or steamed spare ribs with black beans.
Ordering dim sum can be a little daunting for first-timers. Traditionally, dim sum is served from carts that are wheeled around the restaurant. However, many restaurants now use order sheets where you mark the dishes you want. Don’t hesitate to ask the staff for recommendations. Tea is an integral part of the dim sum experience. Popular choices include jasmine tea, oolong tea, and pu-erh tea. Remember to practice basic etiquette, such as offering tea to your companions before filling your own cup.
Street Food Adventures: A Taste of Kowloon’s Energy
Step onto the streets of Kowloon, and you’ll be immediately immersed in a vibrant and chaotic world of sights, sounds, and, most importantly, smells. Kowloon’s street food scene is a thrilling and essential part of its culinary identity. From steaming carts to makeshift stalls, you’ll find an array of delicious and affordable snacks at every turn.
Temple Street Night Market is a must-visit for street food enthusiasts. As the sun sets, the market comes alive with vendors selling everything from clothing and souvenirs to mouthwatering street food. Mong Kok is another popular area for street food, with its narrow streets packed with stalls offering a variety of treats. Sham Shui Po, known for its local vibe and affordable prices, is a great place to discover hidden gems and authentic eats.
Among the must-try street food items, Egg Waffles, also known as Gai Daan Zai, are a local favorite. These crispy and airy waffles are made with a sweet batter and cooked in a special mold. They’re often served plain, but you can also find them topped with various flavors like chocolate, matcha, or ice cream. Curry Fish Balls are another popular snack. These chewy and flavorful fish balls are simmered in a fragrant curry sauce and served on skewers. Stinky Tofu, despite its pungent odor, is a surprisingly addictive treat. This fermented tofu is deep-fried and served with a variety of sauces, such as chili sauce and hoisin sauce. Cheung Fun, or rice noodle rolls, are a Cantonese staple. These silky smooth noodles are steamed and served with a sweet soy sauce, sesame sauce, and sometimes hoisin sauce. A hearty bowl of congee, a type of rice porridge, is the ultimate comfort food. It can be served plain or with a variety of toppings, such as preserved eggs, shredded pork, or fish.
When indulging in street food, it’s important to be mindful of food safety. Choose stalls with long lines, as this is often a sign of freshness and quality. Look for vendors who practice clean cooking habits, such as wearing gloves and keeping their food covered. Be sure to have cash on hand, as most street food vendors do not accept credit cards.
Cantonese Classics and Local Eateries: Beyond Dim Sum and Street Food
While dim sum and street food are essential Kowloon experiences, the district also boasts a rich tapestry of Cantonese restaurants serving more substantial meals. From delicate wonton noodle soups to succulent roast meats and comforting claypot rice, Kowloon offers a range of classic Cantonese dishes that will tantalize your taste buds.
Wonton noodle soup is a Cantonese staple, and Kowloon is home to some of the best wonton noodle shops in Hong Kong. Mak’s Noodle and Tsim Chai Kee Noodle are two popular choices, known for their springy noodles, flavorful broth, and plump, juicy wontons. What makes a good wonton noodle soup? It starts with the broth, which is typically made from pork bones, dried shrimp, and other flavorful ingredients. The noodles should be thin, springy, and slightly chewy. And the wontons should be plump and filled with a savory mixture of shrimp and pork.
Roast meats, or Siu Mei, are another Cantonese specialty. Joy Hing Roasted Meat in Wan Chai (a short train ride or taxi from Kowloon), is renowned for its succulent roast goose, while BBQ King is famed for its char siu, or BBQ pork. Crispy pork belly is another must-try. When ordering roast meats, you can ask for a “mixed platter” to sample a variety of different cuts. Be sure to ask for the “fatty” cut of char siu for the most flavorful experience.
Claypot rice, or Bo Zai Fan, is a popular dish, especially during the winter months. This comforting dish consists of rice cooked in a claypot with various toppings, such as Chinese sausage, chicken, or spareribs. As the rice cooks in the claypot, it develops a crispy crust on the bottom, which is known as “rice crust” and is considered a delicacy. Hing Kee Restaurant is a well-known place for Claypot rice.
For a taste of local culture, visit a Dai Pai Dong, or open-air food stall. These traditional eateries offer a wide range of Cantonese dishes at affordable prices. While Dai Pai Dongs are becoming increasingly rare due to licensing restrictions, you can still find a few in Kowloon. Alternatively, visit a Cha Chaan Teng, or Hong Kong-style cafe. These cafes serve a mix of Western and Chinese dishes, such as milk tea, bolo bao (pineapple bun), and macaroni soup.
Hidden Gems and Unexpected Flavors: Exploring Kowloon’s Culinary Secrets
Beyond the well-known dishes and popular restaurants, Kowloon is also home to a number of hidden gems and unexpected culinary treasures. Venture off the beaten path, and you’ll discover a world of unique and rewarding food experiences.
Tucked away in a quiet corner of Kowloon City is a restaurant serving authentic Sichuan cuisine. With its fiery flavors and bold spices, Sichuan food is a welcome departure from traditional Cantonese fare. Head to the Chilli Fagara (multiple locations), they will not disappoint. Another secret find is a local dessert shop specializing in traditional Chinese sweets. From sesame soup to walnut paste and grass jelly, these desserts are a comforting and delicious way to end a meal.
Perhaps you’ll stumble upon a restaurant with a stunning view of the Hong Kong skyline or a family-run eatery with a long and fascinating history. The key is to be curious, explore, and be open to trying new things.
Practical Information: Navigating Kowloon’s Food Scene
Getting around Kowloon is relatively easy, thanks to its efficient public transportation system. The MTR (subway) is the most convenient way to travel between different districts. Buses are also a good option, offering scenic views of the city. Taxis are readily available but can be more expensive.
While English is widely spoken in Hong Kong, learning a few basic Cantonese phrases can enhance your dining experience. “Lei ho” means “hello,” “m goi” means “thank you,” and “ga yao” means “add oil.” The currency in Hong Kong is Hong Kong Dollars (HKD). Tipping is generally not expected in Hong Kong, but it is appreciated for good service.
The best time to visit Kowloon for food is during the autumn and winter months, when the weather is cooler and more comfortable for exploring. Certain dishes, such as claypot rice, are especially popular during the winter.
Conclusion
Kowloon’s food scene is a vibrant and diverse tapestry, offering a delicious blend of tradition and innovation. From steaming baskets of dim sum to sizzling street food stalls and time-honored Cantonese restaurants, Kowloon has something to offer every palate and budget. So, cross the harbor, explore the streets, and immerse yourself in the culinary delights of Kowloon. You’ll discover a world of flavor that will leave you craving more. Come and experience a true culinary journey of food in Kowloon!
